Big Boulder Lakes Basin, White Clouds Wilderness Idaho

White Clouds Wilderness Idaho

White Clouds Wilderness Idaho

Big Boulder Lakes Basin, White Clouds Wilderness IdahoBig Boulder Lakes White Clouds Wilderness #68936  Purchase

In central Idaho there lies a wilderness area that is seemingly hidden in plain sight. Established by Congress in 2015 the Cecil D. Andrus-White Clouds Wilderness is one of the youngest in the nation. The reason I say that it is hiding in plain sight is the fact the nearby Sawtooth Wilderness grabs all the attention. Visitors flock to the Sawtooths to hike, climb, and fish among their jagged spires. And for good reason, the Sawtooths are visually akin to the Grand Teton Range, albeit on a smaller scale.

But most visitors are unaware of the quiet yet spectacular wilderness just a stone’s throw away. To the east across the valley cut by the Salmon River are the White Clouds. If you climb high in the Sawtooths and look east you’ll get a distant glimpse of them. A small range of high peaks consisting of light-colored rock looking like clouds on the horizon.

There are 63 named lakes in the range and several peaks over 11,000′ in elevation. Additionally, bordering the Cecil D. Andrus-White Clouds Wilderness is the Hemingway-Boulder Wilderness, and the Jim McClure-Jerry Peak Wilderness areas. But for our purposes, we’ll concentrate on the White Clouds.

Trail sign, White Cloud Wilderness IdahoBig Boulder Lakes Trail Sign  #68891 

Backpacking to Walker Lake

Last summer I made my first trip to the White Clouds. The core area of the range most popular with hikers has two sections. In the south is the Boulder Chain Lakes area, which sees more visitors. In the north is the Big Boulder Lakes Basin, my destination for this trip. Both areas can be combined into one long multi-day trip. However, there are a few difficult cross-country sections with steep climbs, exposure, and difficult route finding. This makes a loop route more than the average backpacker is willing to attempt.

One reason Big Boulder Basin sees fewer visitors is the access to the trailhead at the Livingston Mill. From Stanley, this entails a long drive along the Salmon River and then up a narrow and dusty gravel road. There is at least one nice perk to accessing the White Clouds from here, read on to the end to find out what it is.

White Clouds Wilderness IdahoWhite Clouds Wilderness #68980

The last mile or two is pretty narrow with a steep drop-off. Keep a sharp eye out for oncoming vehicles since backing up to the nearest pullout would not be pleasant. There is a large parking area at the road end near Livingston Mill, elevation 7200′.

My destination on the first day was Walker Lake. It’s about 7 miles with 2200′ of elevation gain on a good trail. After the first two multi-use miles the trail splits, the left continues to Boulder Chain Lakes and the right climbs to Walker and Big Boulder Lakes. It is possible to continue in one day to the scenic subalpine basin above Walker Lake, however, the remaining two miles is just a faint route over and through swamps and boulders. Walker Lake was good enough for me, even though it had limited views and camping spots.

Sheep Lake Cecil D. Andrus-White Clouds Wilderness IdahoSheep Lake #68893

Wrong turn to Sheep Lake

The next day I started up to what I thought would be my destination at Sapphire Lake. At first, there was no trail to follow over the rocky terrain. I finally picked up a faint trail, but unknowingly the very steep path was leading me to Sheep Lake in the adjacent basin.  After finally arriving at walled in Sheep Lake it was apparent I made a route-finding mistake. But that was ok since it was a picturesque location with a decent campsite, and I had plenty of time.

Later a short scramble brought me to a ridge top with a commanding view of the surrounding peaks and Walker Lake far below. I was also able to discern from this view the correct route to Sapphire Lake and where I went wrong earlier in the day. From Sheep Lake there was a cross country route around the lake, over an easy pass, and down to Sapphire and the other upper basin lakes. But although I was carrying a good map that route wasn’t obvious from my camp.

White Clouds Wilderness IdahoView of Walker Lake  #68901  Purchase

The next day I retraced my steps down the same path to where I made my mistake. Since the correct route split off in a swampy meadow it was certainly easy to get off track. I finally came across a faint path leading in the right direction, but quickly lost it again. By this time my thought was to just plow straight up, with the assumption I would inevitably get to the top or intersect with the trail again. I did come across the trail again, by now a well-worn path, just two short switchbacks from the top.

Sapphire Lake White Clouds Wilderness IdahoBig Boulder Lakes #68917  Purchase

Sapphire Lake and the Upper Basin

Finally, in the right basin, all traces of paths vanished. However, by now I was in the subalpine and the terrain was open with easy route finding. After a leisurely walk over granite slabs and past several lakes, Sapphire Lake finally spread in front of me. Locating a prime spot with a view I set up camp and took it all in.

There are six lakes in the basin and multiple ponds and tarns, all with their own special character. Cirque, Sapphire, and Cove Lake are the biggest, and in my opinion, Sapphire is the most scenic. Of course, since I was here for photography so scouting out all of them was essential.

David O. Lee Peak, Cecil D. Andrus-White Clouds Wilderness IdahoDavid o’ Lee Peak White Clouds Wilderness  #68945  Purchase

After Sapphire, Cirque Lake appeared to offer great photographic potential. At about 10,500′ Cirque Lake was a gem sitting at the feet of 11,342′ David O. Lee Peak. In contrast to the surrounding granite, David O. Lee is composed of limestone, the rock that gives the White Clouds their name.

Indeed, although Cirque Lake was a grand scene it was set in a stark rocky alpine basin. Only on one section of the shoreline, there were some nice mosses and carpets of wildflowers. The landscape did have photographic potential, but only in the right light. There are a couple of great other options for exploring Cirque Lake.

O'Calkens Peak Slide Lake, Cecil D. Andrus-White Clouds Wilderness IdahoNeck Lake O’Caulkens Peak #68904 

One would be to hike up the easy moraine on the southeast side of the lake. At the top, you’ll be in a truly alpine environment of rock and snow. Tucked away below the wall of the cirque are The Kettles, a small group of tarns, and classic examples of past glacial activity. Along the way up the moraine, you’ll also get great views down to the basin and other lakes.

Another option would be to ascend the slope on the north side of the lake to a small pass. From the pass, you could look across to O’Caulkens peak at 11,487′ and down to Neck Lake in the upper valley I accidentally ended up on the second day. Or you could keep going higher to another pass looking down the west side of the White Clouds. For the truly ambitious a climb to the summit of David O. Lee Peak is possible.

Big Boulder Lakes Basin, White Clouds Wilderness IdahoBig Boulder Lakes #68955 Purchase

A White Clouds Wilderness Post Trip Treat

After exploring and photographing Big Boulder Lakes Basin it was time to head out. Indications of changing weather and approaching storms put an end to my first visit to the White Clouds Wilderness. I was toying with the idea of moving south to check out Boulder Chain Lakes Basin, but the change in weather ruled it out. Hopefully next summer I’ll be able to return and explore and photograph that section.

I should note here since my main goal on backpacking trips is photography my trips are a bit different than that of other backpackers. Others may enjoy covering many miles, being on the move from sun up to sundown. On the other hand, I usually have a goal of allotting a generous amount of time in one area for photography. So in this instance moving to the Boulder Chain Lakes would allow only one brief day for photography. From all indications at least two to four days would be needed.

West Pass hot springs, East Fork Salmon River IdahoWest Pass Hot Springs  #68887

One of the great perks of hiking in central Idaho is the abundance of natural hot springs. There is a huge variety available for the avid soaker, from roadside pools to remote backcountry springs. In this instance, my trusty guidebook, Hot Springs in the Pacific Northwest, pointed to West Pass Hot Springs, not far away on the same access road.

West Pass hot springs, East Fork Salmon River IdahoWest Pass Hot Springs  #68886 

West Pass is about as remote as you can get by vehicle, about 25 miles down a forest service road. The springs flow from a hillside just above the East Fork Salmon River. Hot water is diverted into three strategically placed bathtubs. You can also try soaking in a few riverside pools. At any rate, having a good hot soak at the end of a multi-day backpack is a treat that can’t be passed up!

Cirque Lake, David O. Lee Peak, Cecil D. Andrus-White Clouds Wilderness IdahoDavid o’ Lee Peak White Clouds Wilderness  #68929   Purchase

If You Visit Big Boulder Lakes, White Clouds Wilderness

Distance from trailhead to Sapphire Lake:  about 9 miles
Elevation Gain:  about 3600′
Difficulty:  Moderate-Difficult
Red Tape:  No permits are needed

The Livingston Mill Trailhead is located about 58 miles from Stanley Idaho. Take U.S. 75 37 miles northeast from Stanley to East Fork Road. Go another 17 miles to Big Boulder Creek Road, and finally another 4.3 miles to Livingston Mill. West Pass Hot Springs is another 18 miles further on East Fork Road. Check out Hot Springs in the Pacific Northwest for a detailed description.

The small scenic town of Stanley Idaho makes a great base for trips into the Sawtooths. Lodging, groceries, restaurants, outdoor gear stores, and a great bakery are in town. There are also many campgrounds in the vicinity.

David O. Lee Peak, Cecil D. Andrus-White Clouds Wilderness IdahoDavid o’ Lee Peak White Clouds Wilderness  #68943  Purchase

Leave No Trace

And now for a short lecture. As I’ve been saying in previous posts, don’t even think about visiting this or any other wilderness area unless you are prepared to strictly follow the guidelines of Leave No Trace (LNT). The Wind River Range and all other wilderness areas throughout the world are under incredible pressure from growing amounts of visitors. Please do your part to help preserve these precious areas for future generations!

To learn more about the principles and practicing LNT please take a few minutes to visit the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics. Your children and grandchildren will thank you!

Seven Leave No Trace Principles

  • Plan ahead and prepare.                                       
  • Travel and camp on durable surfaces.                 
  • Dispose of waste properly.                                                                         
  • Leave what you find.                                            
  • Minimize campfire impacts (be careful with fire).
  • Respect wildlife.  
  • Be considerate of other visitors.

Photo Gear Used On This Trip

Nikon D850
Nikkor Lens:
14-24mm 2.8G ED
24-70mm 2.8E ED
70-200mm 2.8E FL ED
Gitzo 1532 Tripod
Really Right Stuff B-55 Ball Head
Assorted Lee Graduated Neutral Density Filters
B+H Polarizing Filter
Vello FWM-N2 Remote Shutter Release

If you enjoyed reading White Clouds Wilderness please share it with your friends and family. And make sure you check out my previous post on the Eagle Cap Wilderness Oregon

Some photos appearing in White Clouds Wilderness Idaho are available for Commercial Licensing and Fine Art Prints. Click on the image to purchase, or contact me for more info!

 

Twin Lakes and Peak 9,923, Alice-Toxaway Lakes Loop Trail Sawtooth Mountains #66175

Alice-Toxaway Loop Backpacking Photography

Alice-Toxaway Loop Backpacking Photography

Twin Lakes Alice-Toxaway Lakes Loop Trail Sawtooth MountainsTwin Lakes #66175  Purchase

The final destination during my time in the Sawtooth Mountains was the classic Alice-Toxaway Loop. I could say that I saved the best for last, but that wouldn’t be accurate. The hikes to Baron Lakes and Sawtooth Lake were equally spectacular. All three destinations have something unique to offer the backcountry visitor.

The Alice-Toxaway Loop sits at the southern end of the range.  It is roughly 17 miles long, travels over one mountain pass, and visits four gorgeous alpine lakes. Aside from the main trail, there are several attractive side trips possible. The most popular being to Imogene Lake over a second pass.

The loop takes usually takes 2-3 days to complete. Some backpackers do the loop in two days, or even day hike or run the loop in one day, but to me that is ridiculous. Isn’t the pace of life today fast enough? It is not difficult to hike in one or two days, but you will be rushing through some of the best scenery of the Sawtooths, on a thoroughly enjoyable trail. For me taking less than three days would be unthinkable. I allotted five days but spent four days due to poor weather on the last day.

Alice-Toxaway Loop Sawtooth Mountains IdahoAlice-Toxaway Loop #66053  Purchase

Hiking to Alice Lake

The loop can be done in a clockwise or counter-clockwise direction. I chose clockwise since I was eager to spend a couple of nights at Alice Lake at the beginning. Starting at Petit Lake from the Tin Cup Trailhead the trail follows the lake shore then enters the forest for a brief spell. From the start to Alice Lake the trail has numerous creek crossings which can be difficult early in the season. Soon the trail begins to climb and the views open. Certainly, one of the best of these is a view far across the valley to the White Cloud Mountains and Wilderness.

Alice Lake Sawtooth Mountains IdahoAlice Lake #66110  Purchase

After this, the trail continues a pleasant climb through rocky terrain, dotted with wildflowers and babbling streams. Soon enough the trail levels out and passes by several small ponds near the outlet of Alice Lake. All along this stretch, the landscape is dominated by the lofty spire of El Capitan. Here, and at Alice Lake, there are many great places to set up camp. I chose one further along the trail at Alice Lake near some of the best photo ops. I spent the rest of the day relaxing and scouting for photo compositions.

Alice Lake camp Sawtooth MountainsCamping at Alice Lake  #66072  Purchase

Alice Lake camp Sawtooth MountainsCamping at Alice Lake  #66086  Purchase

There were some great spots along the far end of the lake for photography. However, from that perspective, El Capitan had a more rounded appearance. Hiking back to near the outlet of the lake it displayed a more impressive horn-like spire.

El Capitan Sawtooth Mountains IdahoEl Capitan, Alice Lake  #66114  Purchase

On to Twin Lakes

After a couple of nights spent at Alice Lake, I moved on to Twin Lakes. Twin Lakes is a very short hike from Alice, about a mile and around several hundred feet higher. Some say Twin Lakes has the better views, but that’s all subjective. I think Alice and Twin are equally impressive, they just have different personalities.

Backpacker Twin Lakes Sawtooth Mountains IdahoBackpacker at Twin Lakes #66137  Purchase

The focal point for photography was the impressive unnamed horn-shaped peak across the lake. I spent a good deal of time scouting and lining up compositions for evening and morning light. Along the way, I came across a huge gnarled old White Bark Pine. I just couldn’t pass up making some photos of its lumpy distorted trunk.

Whitebark Pine (Pinus albicaulis) Sawtooth Mountains IdahoWhite Bark Pine #66141  Purchase

The next morning I awoke before dawn and set up my gear in a preselected site and waited for dawn. There were some beautiful clouds and soft light to work with. Utilizing a wide lens I was able to use angles and shapes from the peak across the lake.

Twin Lakes Alice-Toxaway Lakes Loop Trail Sawtooth MountainsTwin Lakes #66170  Purchase

Unfortunately more clouds soon moved in and it became apparent that the weather would be making a change. After finishing up photography and breakfast I packed up camp and set out for the next destination on the loop, Toxaway Lake.

Toxaway Lake

Immediately the trail begins a switchback climb up to Snowyside Pass, the high point of the loop at 9416′. From here the views are spectacular. Although I continued on down the pass, an easy scramble to the summit of Snowyside Peak is a popular side trip. Below are Twin Lakes, set in a bowl surrounded by jagged peaks and ridges. The pass area would make a great spot to camp but after a short while, I needed to move on.

Alice-Toxaway Lakes Loop Trail Sawtooth MountainsThe trail above Twin Lakes #66198  Purchase

Toxaway Lake is several miles further on from the pass. The trail down passed through some beautiful meadows filled with wildflowers. I was disappointed to see how far down the trail descended, and it soon became apparent that Toxaway Lake would be just below the tree line. Getting nearer the lake mosquitoes became a problem for the first time on the trip.

After what seemed like a long hike I finally arrived at the lake and began looking for a campsite. Further on down the lake is a junction that heads up to Imogene Lake, and many other in the adjacent basin. I must have passed up the main camping area since near the outlet I had some trouble locating a suitable spot. When I did find one it was just when it began to rain. During the rest of the day and most of the next morning, it rained steadily. Any chance of meaningful photography at Toxaway Lake was gone.

Twin Lakes Sawtooth Mountains IdahoTwin Lakes #66185  Purchase

The Hike Out

The next morning the rain eased up a little but clouds still shrouded the surrounding peaks. I took advantage of the break in the rain, packed up, and headed down the trail. Long sections of the trail were now muddy ponds and streams. Eventually, the rain stopped but the clouds still hung low.

The trail continued a gradual descent as it passed Farley Lake. I was disappointed to have missed out on photographing at Toxaway Lake, and now Farley Lake would also be a casualty of the weather. After Farley, the trail descended more rapidly and entered deep forests of pine. It passed through an enormous avalanche path made during the previous winter. Huge trees snapped like match sticks were laying everywhere.

Alice-Toxaway Loop Trail Sawtooth Wilderness IdahoAlice-Toxaway Loop #56141  Purchase

The last section of the trail seemed to be the longest and most uninteresting. A monotonous hike through lodgepole pines, a tricky stream crossing, and then a climb over and down a ridge to the trailhead at Petit Lake. Along the way I came across an interesting sight, a large group of backpackers all sleeping in separate hammocks. There must have been six to eight hammocks spread out among the trees. They reminded me of some sort of giant insect cocoons! I must admit that they didn’t look like the kind of shelter I would enjoy being confined to during the previous day of rain.

The Alice-Toxaway Loop was now in the bag, and it lived up to its reputation in every way. I would highly recommend this trip for beginners and advanced backpackers, it has all the elements that hiking dreams are made of!

Little Redfish Lake Sawtooth Mountains IdahoLittle Redfish Lake #66227 Purchase

Last Day at Little Redfish Lake

Now, after two weeks of Backpacking and photography in the Sawtooth Mountains, I was just about ready to wrap things up and move on. However, I was treated to one final glorious morning of photography at Little Redfish Lake. As usual, I was there before dawn and ready. As the sun came rose it lit up the clouds in pinks, purples, and then orange, and yellow. A truly wonderful finale to one of the most memorable groups of hiking trips I’ve ever done.

As a celebration, I made a brief stop at Sunbeam Hot Springs and had a good soak along the Salmon River. Now on to the main attraction of this trip, the Wind River Range of Wyoming!

Sunbeam hot springs Salmon River IdahoSunbeam Hot Springs  Idaho #66250 Purchase

If You Go

Round Trip Distance:  19 Mile Loop
Elevation:   About 2900′ gain, Highpoint 9416′
Difficulty:  Moderate to difficult
Red Tape:  Free Permits are required, available at the trailhead

To get to Tincup Trailhead hiker’s parking lot, drive about 18 miles south of Stanley on U.S. 75 and another two miles west along FR 208. The small scenic town of Stanley Idaho makes a great base for trips into the Sawtooths. Lodging, groceries, restaurants, outdoor gear stores, and a great bakery are in town. Redfish Lake Lodge also has many similar amenities.

As mentioned earlier in this post, the Sawtooths are an extremely popular destination. Not only for hikers and backpackers, but also tourists, front country family camping, river rafters, and fishing. During the height of summer just about every campsite, both front country, and backcountry will be filled before noon. Therefore, make your plans accordingly to avoid frustration.

One of the best perks of the area is the numerous natural and wild hot springs. Soaking in one along the Salmon River is one of the greatest post-hike activities.

Leave No Trace

As I said in my previous post, don’t even think about visiting this or any other wilderness area unless you are prepared to strictly follow the guidelines of Leave No Trace (LNT). The Sawtooth and all other wilderness areas throughout the world are under incredible pressure from growing amounts of visitors. Please do your part to help preserve these precious areas for future generations!

To learn more about the principles and practicing LNT please take a few minutes to visit the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics. Your children and grandchildren will thank you!

Seven Leave No Trace Principles

  • Plan ahead and prepare.                                       
  • Travel and camp on durable surfaces.                 
  • Dispose of waste properly.                                                                         
  • Leave what you find.                                            
  • Minimize campfire impacts (be careful with fire).
  • Respect wildlife.  
  • Be considerate of other visitors.

Check out more of the photos from this trip in my Idaho Archives.
All the photos in this post are available as Fine Art Prints and for Commercial Licensing.

Photo Gear Used On This Trip

Nikon D850
Nikkor Lens:
14-24mm 2.8G ED
24-70mm 2.8E ED
70-200mm 2.8E FL ED
Gitzo 1532 Tripod
Really Right Stuff B-55 Ball Head
Assorted Lee Graduated Neutral Density Filters
B+H Polarizing Filter
Vello FWM-N2 Remote Shutter Release

Little Redfish Lake Sawtooth Mountains IdahoMount Heyburn, Little Redfish Lake #66244  Purchase

Alice-Toxaway Loop Backpacking Photography

 

Monte Verita Peak mirrored in still waters of Baron Lake. Sawtooth Mountains Wilderness Idaho #66032

Baron Lakes Sawtooth Mountains

Baron Lakes Sawtooth Mountains

Baron Lake Monte Verita Peak Sawtooth Mountains Baron Lakes Sawtooth MountainsBaron Lake Sawtooth Mountains  #66032  Purchase

Update 2/16/2021: Thanks to a blog reader I was just made aware that on 8/7/2020 the summit of Baron Spire “Old Smoothie” collapsed due to an earthquake. Look closely at the rounded pyramid-shaped peak just right of center in the fifth photo in this post, “Baron Spire reflected on Baron Lake  #66029”.  You’ll notice an egg-shaped rock with a slight left lean at the top of Baron Spire. This entire mass of granite is now gone. You can see a dramatic video of the collapse here.

———————

After a successful trip to Sawtooth Lake, I was itching to get back on the trail and see more of the Sawtooth Mountains. The question was where to go next. There are plenty of tantalizing destinations in the Sawtooths. To explore them all you would need at least a full summer. Like most people with limited time, I wanted to visit the best of the best and return later for more in-depth exploration.

With about two weeks available I knew that the famous Alice-Toxaway Loop was a must-do. There were also several very attractive destinations in the Redfish Lake area. Cramer Lakes and Saddleback Lakes were two of those. However, the hike to Baron Lakes looked like it would provide several elements I was after. First and foremost was a good variety of photographic subject matter. Three lakes and one mountain pass is better than a straight hike into just one lake. Secondly, I wanted the hike in to be moderately challenging, but not exhausting. I was, after all, carrying plenty of heavy photo equipment on my back, aside from the usual camping paraphernalia. So, Baron Lakes, it was.

Redfish Creek Canyon Trail Sawtooth Mountains Idaho Baron Lakes Sawtooth MountainsRedfish Creek Trail  #65999  Purchase

Hiking to Baron Lakes Sawtooth Mountains

To get to the start of the Baron Lakes trail, or any destination along Redfish Creek Valley you have two options. On one hand, you can begin at the hiker’s parking lot near Redfish Lake Lodge. Or for a $17 roundtrip, you can take a water taxi from the lodge to the trailhead at the head of Redfish Lake. This option will save you about five miles of hiking. Like a lot of others, I opted for the water taxi. On a beautiful warm summer morning, it was tempting to just rent a canoe or kayak and leisurely explore the lake. But I was there to grunt and sweat my way up a hot and dusty trail instead.

After an initial climb, the trail levels out a bit for the first few miles. At Flatrock Junction, the trail splits. Continuing on the main trail will take you to Cramer Lakes, the right fork ascends to Alpine, and Baron Lakes. Here is where the real work begins. The trail begins to switch back up to Alpine Lake, first through meadows and then along a cliff wall partially shaded by trees.

My first night was spent at Alpine Lake, yes there are two lakes sharing this name in the Sawtooths. Although the lake is set in a picturesque bowl I was a bit disappointed in this location. This is a popular destination and most of the NE side of the lakeshore has been pounded to dust by overuse, and the open forest here doesn’t provide much opportunity for solitude.

Baron Divide Trail Sawtooth Mountains Idaho Baron Divide Trail  #65051  Purchase

The next day I awoke and packed up early. I was eager to leave the dismal campsite and reach Baron Divide before it became too hot. This climb to the divide is pleasant, passing several ponds and grassy meadows along the way. Finally, at the divide, the fabulous scene of Baron Lakes and Monte Verita Peak came into view. It was a long switchback hike down to the lakes along boulder fields and flower meadows. This is truly one of those stretches of trail that backpackers dream of.

Hiker at Baron Lake Sawtooth Mountains Idaho Baron Lakes Backpacking PhotographyBaron Lake  #66043  Purchase

At Baron Lakes Sawtooth Mountains

Upper Baron Lake is a great destination with good campsites, but the middle lake has the views I was anticipating for photography. Most of the campsites are on the North side of the lake and are close to the lake outlet. Fortunately, I was there early enough to find a secluded spot further on along a small bay. For most of the morning, I had the lake all to myself, but by evening every available space that could hold a tent was occupied. Despite highly visible trailhead signs prohibiting campfires at least one group felt the need to build one and fill the area with smoke.

Baron Lake Warbonnet Peak Sawtooth MountainsBaron Spire reflected on Baron Lake  #66029  Purchase

There are many possibilities for exploration from the lake. A short climb behind the camps offers great views down to the lower lake, and Baron Creek Valley with the imposing bulk of Baron Peak dominating the scene. Monte Verita and Wabonnet Peaks offer exciting scrambling and climbing routes. Hiking around the shore you can also climb back to the upper lake for a pleasant loop trip. Of course, you also can just sit and enjoy the view or try your luck at fishing.

Photographing at Baron Lakes Sawtooth Mountains

Since this was my first visit my goal was to photograph the classic view of Baron Lake with Monte Verita in the background. It doesn’t get much better than that. I just had to scout out the best compositions and wait for some good light.

Milky Way Baron Lake Sawtooth MountainsMilky Way over Baron Lake  #66011  Purchase

The evening was pleasant, but there was very little light illuminating the spires of Monte Verita. It became apparent that at this time of year the best light would come in the morning. After sunset, I took the opportunity to do some night photography. The location was perfect since the Milky Way was just to the left of Monte Verita at a pleasing angle.

At sunrise, there was a very attractive sprinkling of small puffy clouds reflected on a mirror-smooth lake surface. As the sun rose the clouds were continually changing patterns, keeping me busy photographing Rorschach-like compositions.

Baron Lake Monte Verita Peak Sawtooth Mountains Baron Lake #66034  Purchase

Hiking Out

I spent another night at the lake, but since it was Sunday everyone else had Packed up and left. Therefore I had it all to myself, with plenty of time to anticipate the grueling climb back up to Baron Divide. The next morning that climb wasn’t too bad since I once again had a successful trip in the bag, and the views were still spectacular.

Like every other hike, descending Baron Divide was somewhat sad since the views were behind me and the trip was coming to a close. As a took one last look at the lakes and peaks I was hoping to return soon. Back down the trail to Redfish Lake I was all smiles, eager to speak with other hikers about the beauty they would soon see. By the time I reached the water taxi dock the day was hot, so the boat ride back was a cool relief.

Redfish Lake Lodge boat dock, Redfish Lake Sawtooth Mountains IdahoRedfish Lake Marina  #65995  Purchase

By then my mind was occupied by thoughts of pizza, a cold beer, and the Alice-Toxaway Loop hike.

Next up: Alice-Toxaway Loop

If You Go

Round Trip Distance:  15 Miles
Elevation:   About 3500′ gain, Highpoint Baron Divide 9175′
Difficulty:  Moderate to difficult
Red Tape:  Free Permits are required, available at the trailhead

To get to Redfish Lake hikers parking lot, Redfish Lake Lodge and water taxi drive about 6 miles south of Stanley on U.S. 75 and another two miles along FR 214. There are plenty of campsites near Redfish Lake and Little Redfish Lake.

The small scenic town of Stanley Idaho makes a great base for trips into the Sawtooths. Lodging, groceries, restaurants, outdoor gear stores, and a great bakery are in town. Redfish Lake Lodge also has many similar amenities.

As mentioned earlier in this post, the Sawtooths are an extremely popular destination. Not only for hikers and backpackers, but also tourists, front country family camping, river rafters, and fishing. During the height of summer just about every campsite, both front country, and backcountry will be filled before noon. So make your plans accordingly to avoid frustration.

One of the best perks of the area is the numerous natural and wild hot springs. Soaking in one along the Salmon River is one of the greatest post-hike activities.

Leave No Trace

As I said in my previous post, don’t even think about visiting this or any other wilderness area unless you are prepared to strictly follow the guidelines of Leave No Trace (LNT). The Sawtooth and all other wilderness areas throughout the world are under incredible pressure from growing amounts of visitors. Please do your part to help preserve these precious areas for future generations!

To learn more about the principles and practicing LNT please take a few minutes to visit the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics. Your children and grandchildren will thank you!

Seven Leave No Trace Principles

  • Plan ahead and prepare.                                       
  • Travel and camp on durable surfaces.                 
  • Dispose of waste properly.                                                                         
  • Leave what you find.                                            
  • Minimize campfire impacts (be careful with fire).
  • Respect wildlife.  
  • Be considerate of other visitors.

Photo Gear Used On This Trip

Nikon D850
Nikkor Lens:
14-24mm 2.8G ED
24-70mm 2.8E ED
70-200mm 2.8E FL ED
Gitzo 1532 Tripod
Really Right Stuff B-55 Ball Head
Assorted Lee Graduated Neutral Density Filters
B+H Polarizing Filter
Vello FWM-N2 Remote Shutter Release

Milky Way Baron Lake Sawtooth MountainsMilky Way over Baron Lake  #66010  Purchase

Check out more of the photos from this trip in my Idaho Archives.
All the photos in this post are available as Fine Art Prints and for Commercial Licensing.

Next up: Alice-Toxaway Loop

Baron Lakes Sawtooth Mountains

Wispy clouds over Sawtooth Lake and Mount Regan are illuminated by the setting sun. Sawtooth Mountains Wilderness Idaho #65880

Sawtooth Lake Sawtooth Mountains Idaho

Sawtooth Lake Sawtooth Mountains Idaho

Sawtooth Lake and Mount Regan Idaho Sawtooth Lake #65880  Purchase

The first destination on my summer photography tour of the Rocky Mountains was the Sawtooth Range of central Idaho.  I had been to the Sawtooths for photography several times in the past.  However, this was to be my first foray into the famed backcountry. With ample time available I planned to make several backpacks into several of the most scenic locations. The first destination I chose was Sawtooth Lake.

Sawtooth Mountains Idaho Trailside view of Sawtooth Mountains #65987  Purchase

Hiking to Sawtooth Lake

Sawtooth Lake is the largest backcountry lake, and one of the most popular in the Sawtooth Wilderness. It is also probably one of the shortest backpacking destinations. The distance from the Iron Creek trailhead to the lake is about 4.5 miles, with 1750′ of elevation gain. Depending on your physical condition and pack weight the trip could be anywhere from easy to moderately difficult. The first half of the hike is fairly easy and passes through the cool shade of the forest. However, at around 3.5 miles things get serious with a switchback climb to Alpine Lake.  Sitting in a cliff-ringed bowl at tree line Alpine Lake is a nice destination in itself. Some hikers decide to base camp here and then day hike up to Sawtooth Lake. I decided to take a pass since I was eager to see Sawtooth Lake.

Alpine Lake Sawtooth Mountains Idaho Alpine Lake Sawtooth Mountains  #65988  Purchase

At the junction of Alpine Lake, the trail gets down to business. For the last mile or so the trail switchbacks steeply up a ridge to Sawtooth Lake. Although it is a bit of a grind it is also the most scenic part of the trail. Here the trees thin out and offer great views of the rugged peaks and ridges. The views make this last stretch go quickly despite the steep climb. If you started later in the day this section can also be hot with the sun beating down on you.

At Sawtooth Lake

When the trail levels out it meanders through a pleasant subalpine landscape of cool streams and small ponds. From here it’s less than half a mile to the lake. If you’ve arrived later in the day you should probably take advantage of any open campsites available in this area. This a good reason to get as early a start as possible. Nearly all backcountry camps in the Sawtooths fill up very quickly. If you arrive late you may not find a spot and be tempted to camp in an undesignated area. Please don’t do this as the vegetation is extremely fragile.

Sawtooth Lake hiker, Sawtooth Mountains idahoSawtooth Lake and Mount Regan #65930  Purchase

After a short hike through this area, I arrived at the fabled view of Sawtooth Lake and Mount Regan. It was a thrill to see this sight in person after viewing pictures of it for many years. While I wanted to just sit and take it all in I immediately went down to the business of finding a campsite. Although I arrived early the best sites with a lake view were already taken. A few minutes of checking out the area yielded a great site among boulders and trees a short distance from the lake.

Photographing At Sawtooth Lake

Upon setting up camp, relaxing, and having a bite to eat, it was time to begin scouting the lake vicinity for photo ops later in the day. Two spots that seemed to offer good photo compositions. One was a little south along the shore by a big boulder field, the other higher up at the head of the lake on the trail to McGown Lakes. This second spot was where I decided to set up for evening light.

Sawtooth Lake and Mount Regan IdahoSawtooth Lake Afterglow #65888  Purchase

The trail to McGown Lakes begins at the lake outlet and climbs through rocky bowls dotted with wildflowers. Soon it begins a wide open traverse through scree fields below an unnamed peak. In an area with beautiful views in all directions, this was one of the best. The entire lake was spread out below with Mount Regan as an impressive backdrop. I set up my tripod here and relaxed for a few hours as the evening light came on. I was very fortunate to have some nice wispy clouds at sunset to accentuate the composition. A wonderful end to my first day in the Sawtooths.

Sawtooth Lake Sawtooth Mountains IdahoSawtooth Lake #65898  Purchase

The next morning I set up in the boulder field along the lake shore. I arrived before dawn and was disappointed to see an empty cloudless sky. But here I was, so I waited patiently hoping for some nice light. Fortunately, some nice clouds appeared and it turned out to be a beautiful morning. Returning to camp I noticed that all the others in the area were still sound asleep. It’s always nice to have a beautiful sunrise to yourself, but I feel sorry for those who sleep in and miss it.

Sawtooth Lake and Mount Regan IdahoMount Regan Sawtooth Lake #65922  Purchase

At the south end of Sawtooth Lake

After breakfast, I decided to move on to the other end of the lake. A short scenic mile brought me to the south end of Sawtooth Lake. Most hikers don’t seem to bother with checking out this end so I had it all to myself. I found a nice established camp among some giant boulders and began exploring the area. I was especially interested in hiking a little further south along the trail to see if there were good views across the valley to Baron Peak. The hike below Mount Regan through open rocky terrain was exciting, but the trail soon began to drop into the valley. There were nice views of Baron Peak but not what I had hoped for.

Sawtooth Lake night sky Sawtooth Mountains IdahoNight sky over Sawtooth Lake #65938  Purchase

That evening the sky was disappointingly cloudless. To make up for it I decided to take my first shot at night sky photography. The next morning I again set up before dawn in a cloudless sky. Very frustrating but again I waited and hoped. Incredibly just at dawn, a few clouds appeared. What looked at first like a boring morning turned into a nearly two-hour frenzy of photography. Cloud patterns and light continued to change and I came away with plenty of new and exciting images.

Sawtooth Lake Sawtooth Mountains IdahoMorning clouds over Sawtooth Lake #65942  Purchase

Later that morning I packed up and began the hike out. It’s always a little sad for me to leave such a beautiful place, but I was thrilled at having my first trip to the Sawtooths a total success. I savored every step I made on the trail and envisioned my return sometime in the future.

Next up: Baron Lakes Sawtooth Mountains

Sawtooth Lake Sawtooth Mountains IdahoMorning clouds over Sawtooth Lake #65954  Purchase

If You Go

Round Trip Distance:  10 Miles
Elevation:   About 1758′ gain, Highpoint 8471′
Difficulty:  Moderate
Red Tape:  Free Permits are required, available at the trailhead

To get to the Iron Creek Trailhead from Stanley, go northwest 2.5 miles on ID 21, then 4 miles south on Forest Road #619. There are plenty of campsites near the trailhead and along the road to facilitate an early start.

The small scenic town of Stanley Idaho makes a great base for trips into the Sawtooths. Lodging, groceries, restaurants, outdoor gear stores, and a great bakery are in town. There are also many campgrounds in the vicinity.

As mentioned earlier in this post, the Sawtooths are an extremely popular destination. Not only for hikers and backpackers, but also tourists, front country family camping, river rafters, and fishing. During the height of summer just about every campsite, both front country, and backcountry will be filled before noon. So make your plans accordingly to avoid frustration.

One of the best perks of the area is the numerous natural and wild hot springs. Soaking in one along the Salmon River is one of the greatest post-hike activities.

Leave No Trace

Don’t even think about visiting this or any other wilderness area unless you are prepared to strictly follow the guidelines of Leave No Trace (LNT). All wilderness areas throughout the world are under incredible pressure from growing amounts of visitors. Please do your part to help preserve these precious areas for future generations!

To learn more about the principles and practicing LNT please take a few minutes to visit the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics. Your children and grandchildren will thank you!

Seven Leave No Trace Principles

  • Plan ahead and prepare.                                       
  • Travel and camp on durable surfaces.                 
  • Dispose of waste properly.                                                                         
  • Leave what you find.                                            
  • Minimize campfire impacts (be careful with fire).
  • Respect wildlife.  
  • Be considerate of other visitors.

Stanley Basin Sawtooth Mountains IdahoSawtooth Mountains from Stanley Basin #65845  Purchase

Check out more of the photos from this trip in my Idaho Archives.
All the photos in this post are available as Fine Art Prints and for Commercial Licensing.

Photo Gear Used On This Trip

Nikon D850
Nikkor Lens:
14-24mm 2.8G ED
24-70mm 2.8E ED
70-200mm 2.8E FL ED
Gitzo 1532 Tripod
Really Right Stuff B-55 Ball Head
Assorted Lee Graduated Neutral Density Filters
B+H Polarizing Filter
Vello FWM-N2 Remote Shutter Release

Sawtooth Lake Sawtooth Mountains IdahoMorning clouds over Sawtooth Lake #65974  Purchase

Next up: Baron Lakes Sawtooth Mountains

Sawtooth Lake Sawtooth Mountains Idaho

 

Stanley Basin Sawtooth Mountains Idaho

New Images Sawtooth Mountains Idaho

New Images Sawtooth Mountains Idaho

Stanley Basin Sawtooth Mountains IdahoMeadows of Stanley Basin, Idaho #65845  Purchase

The first group of new images from my Rocky Mountains photo tour is now online and ready to view. This selection represents the first leg of my trip, the Sawtooth Mountains of Idaho. It includes photos made during three separate backpacking trips into the most spectacular backcountry locations in the Sawtooths. Sawtooth Lake, Baron Lakes, and the famous Alice-Toxaway Lakes Loop. Also among this group are images from Little Redfish Lake and meadows of  Stanley Basin. Both of these locations yielded some great images on this and previous visits.

Milky Way Baron Lake Sawtooth MountainsMilky Way over Baron Lake  #66011  Purchase

The Sawtooth Mountains backcountry has been on my must photograph list for many years. They were on the schedule last year, but due to widespread wildfires and smoke I had to cancel the shoot. This year, however, provided ideal conditions for an extended stay. And I took full advantage of it. In addition to there being no fires or smoke, several passing summer storms provided beautiful evening and morning light. Perfect conditions for landscape photography.

After I complete editing and processing all the images from the rest of the trip I’ll return to the beginning and write detailed posts about all the locations I photographed.

To see even more images from this and previous trips to the Sawtooth Mountains please click this link to go to the Idaho gallery of my Archives. All images are available as fine art prints and for commercial licensing.

Next group of new images coming soon: Wind River Range Wyoming

Sawtooth Lake Sawtooth Mountains IdahoSawtooth Lake, Idaho #65942  Purchase

Twin Lakes Sawtooth MountainsTwin Lakes, Alice-Toxaway Lakes Loop #66185  Purchase

New Images Sawtooth Mountains Idaho

Little Redfish Lake, Sawtooth National Recreation Area Idaho

Little Redfish Lake Sawtooth Mountains

Little Redfish Lake Sawtooth Mountains Idaho

Little Redfish Lake, Sawtooth National Recreation Area IdahoSunrise over Little Redfish Lake, Sawtooth Mountains Idaho  #56173  Purchase

Another great spot for photography in the Sawtooth Mountains of Idaho is Redfish Lake and Little Redfish Lake. While both lakes have spectacular views Little Redfish is smaller, and offers better intimate compositions than its bigger neighbor.

After my success at having good light at Stanley Lake several days before I didn’t think that luck would strike twice in the same trip, but it did. The first evening I scoured the lakeshore for good compositions. I found the best spot was one that obviously was used by photographers in the past. You can always tell by the small patch of ground  worn bare and hardened. The light was nice and I got a few good shots. However evening light puts the range mostly in shade. Morning promised to be a better time for photos, if the light was good.

As always I got up before sunrise and set up in my spot and waited. Like several days prior at Stanley Lake fog threatening to obscure the view. The stillness of the air meant the surface of the lake was mirror still, and I kept my fingers crossed. Also the sky was cloudy and it didn’t look like the sun would break through. Luck was with me though, and as you can see from these photos the fog held off and the clouds began to clear. Perfect timing, as the first predawn light began paint the sky with purples and reds.

The clouds and atmosphere that morning were just right to keep the light and colors going long after the sun had risen. As the light began to wash out the fog came back and closed off any views until the heat of the day burned it off. I packed up  and decided to check out the bigger Redfish Lake, there the fog was also thick but there was a couple of surprises for me which I’ll save for the next post.

Little Redfish Lake, Sawtooth National Recreation Area IdahoSunrise over Little Redfish Lake, Sawtooth Mountains Idaho  #56184  Purchase

Little Redfish Lake, Sawtooth National Recreation Area IdahoSunrise over Little Redfish Lake, Sawtooth Mountains Idaho  #56196  Purchase

Bruneau River Canyon Overlook Idaho

Bruneau Canyon Idaho

Bruneau Canyon Idaho

Bruneau River Canyon Overlook IdahoBruneau Canyon Sunset  #56320  Purchase

Another location I visited on my recent photo trip to Idaho was Bruneau Canyon. Located on BLM land in a remote corner of the Snake River Plain in SW Idaho. This canyon is more well known to white water enthusiasts than photographers. I wasn’t even aware of its existence until thumbing through an Idaho tourism brochure I picked up in a rest area. Given the hot sunny and windy conditions and a long drive on a dusty gravel road I wasn’t sure I wanted to include it in my itinerary. However I soldiered on and was glad I did.

Bruneau Canyon is roughly 40 miles long, cut through layers of basalt by the Bruneau River. From the overlook  it is 800′ deep. Getting here in mid-day the canyon was a bit of a disappointment, the light was pale and featureless. Aside from the big gash in the earth there was absolutely nothing else around. Just flat plains as far as the eye could see. The only other cause for excitement was a government sign announcing to travelers they are entering an Air Force bombing range.

As always in photography light  means everything and as the sun dipped to the horizon things began to pick up. After sunset when alpenglow kicked in there was some nice warm even light on the canyon walls. The next morning look very promising with wispy clouds glowing in beautiful colors before the sun came up. Unfortunately the majority of them weren’t over the canyon, but it turned out well anyway.

If you decide to visit the Bureau Canyon make it part of a trip that includes other nearby spots like Shoshone Falls or the Owyhee Uplands. Make sure you’re ready to be on your own, although there are great spots along the rim to camp in solitude there is no water, cell phone reception or any other facilities. You also might want to bring a helmet for the objects falling from airplanes!

Bruneau River Canyon Overlook IdahoBruneau Canyon Idaho  #56299  Purchase

Air Force bombing range warning sign SW IdahoAir Force Bombing Range Warning Sign  #56332

Car camping in SW IdahoCamping on rim of Bruneau Canyon  #56311

Stanley Lake Sawtooth Mountains Idaho

Stanley Lake Sawtooth Mountains Idaho

Stanley Lake, Sawtooth Mountains, IdahoFull moon over Stanley Lake and McGown Peak, Sawtooth Mountains Idaho #55933  Purchase

Last month when I was photographing in the Sawtooth Mountains of Idaho one of my main goals was to come back with some exceptional images of Stanley Lake. This lake is on the northern end of the Sawtooth Mountains. With McGown Peak in the background, it is one of the more classic scenes in an area overflowing with photo great opportunities. On this trip I was lucky enough to get not one but two instances of exceptional light.

My first day in the area found me photographing a couple of meadows. They were filled with wildflowers about a mile up the trail from the lake. While at these meadows an evening storm began to clear. Just in time to fill the sky with fabulous tones of yellow orange red and finally purples and pinks. I felt lucky to have been in the right place at the right time to photograph the wildflowers and McGown Peak. But at the same time I knew that the view from the lake must have been awesome too. Unfortunately the lake was too far away to include it in the same evening session.

While back at my camp that evening I was a bit disappointed to see the night filled with stars. That meant the morning would most likely be an empty blue sky, not the conditions I had hoped for. I awoke before daybreak to check out the lake anyway and as I expected there was not a cloud in the sky, but the lake was mirror still and a full moon was drifting down from the sky to the right of McGown Peak. As I was setting up my camera as if by magic fog banks began to form over the lake, thinking rats now I wouldn’t even get this basic photo. But the fog started to spread into wisps and concentrate in areas that would enhance the composition.

After the sun began to wash out most of the color in the mountains the fog rolled back in and completely obliterated the seven for the next hour or so. The first photo below is the result. I ended up with about a half dozen variations, with of course a few verticals included for possible cover placements. A very satisfying mornings works.

Stanley Lake, Sawtooth Mountains, IdahoSunset over Stanley Lake and McGown Peak, Sawtooth Mountains Idaho #56121  Purchase

After having more good light and photo sessions in other nearby areas, I was  ready to move on to Redfish Lake, another great location. The sky was hazy all day with threats of approaching showers. It didn’t look like there would be anything worthwhile to photograph in the evening. However, at the last minute I had a hunch to head back to Stanley Lake, since it was so close. The showers never appeared and the haze began to thin out into streamers of high clouds. Those condition were perfect for catching colorful rays of light, even after the sun had set.

All I had to do was set up in the same spot as before and hope and wait for the sky to start glowing. I wasn’t disappointed. I had plenty of time to make me great images, even after the sunset. The second photo in this post is from that evening. As with the evening in the meadows several days earlier I noticed in the opposite direction some incredible cloud formations. They were glowing in orange and reds. As if taunting me to pack up my camera gear and drive like mad to chase the light just down the road. However, I knew that would be a futile effort. The light was fading and there wouldn’t be enough time to get to a suitable location.

I just stood there and enjoyed the sounds of the Loons  and remaining light.